On every cosmetic product, the ingredients list — or INCI — follows a precise regulatory order: components are listed by weight, in descending order of concentration. This structure aims for transparency, yet a critical detail often goes unremarked.
The regulation stipulates that ingredients present at concentrations of one per cent or less may be listed in any order. This means that after the primary constituents, which appear first, the remainder — a significant portion of the formula — can be arranged discretionarily by the formulator.
This flexibility means a trace preservative, perhaps present at 0.1%, might appear before a botanical extract used at 0.9%. The perceived order can therefore be misleading, suggesting a higher inclusion rate for certain elements than is truly the case.
The rationale behind this rule is partly practical: measuring precise concentrations of very low-level ingredients can be challenging, and their exact sequence is deemed less impactful than the primary constituents.
Consumers seeking to understand a product’s composition should focus on the first five to seven ingredients. These typically represent the bulk of the product’s formulation, indicating its primary function and texture.
Most mass-market products might highlight a fashionable ingredient by placing it higher in the sub-one per cent section. Evera, however, adheres to a clear philosophy, ensuring that ingredients like its organic-farmed botanicals are listed transparently, not merely for perceived prominence.
The brand's shampoos, for example, contain sodium coco-sulfate — a gentle, coconut-derived cleanser — which is openly identified as a sulfate. This ingredient’s position on the label reflects its actual presence, rather than its perceived marketability.
For active ingredients, the one per cent threshold is less of a concern. Their efficacy often depends on very low concentrations, but their placement in the main part of the INCI list provides a clearer indication of their deliberate inclusion.
Understanding this nuance allows for a more informed assessment of product claims, moving beyond surface-level interpretations of ingredient lists to a deeper appreciation of cosmetic chemistry.
