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Phthalate-Free Shampoo: What UK Rules Already Ban

Posted by Evera on

Phthalate-free shampoo is mostly a label flourish in the UK, because the phthalates with the worst safety record are already prohibited in cosmetics. The UK version of the Cosmetics Regulation names at least ten phthalates in its list of banned substances, including dibutyl phthalate, DEHP and benzyl butyl phthalate. Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is not on that list and has been used in fragrance. Fragrance appears on a label only as “parfum”, so a label cannot prove a product is free of it. Evera does not call any product phthalate-free. Here is the evidence and how to choose.

Phthalate-free shampoo: what the data says

What UK law already bans

Annex II of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, in the UK version published on legislation.gov.uk, is the list of substances that must not be in a cosmetic product. We read the revised version dated 3 December 2020 and found ten numbered entries that name a phthalate:

Annex II entry Substance CAS number
675 Dibutyl phthalate 84-74-2
677 bis(2-Ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) 117-81-7
678 bis(2-Methoxyethyl) phthalate 117-82-8
1151 Dipentyl and pentyl phthalates (a group of four substances) 131-18-0 and others
1152 Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) 85-68-7
1492 Diisobutyl phthalate 84-69-5
1559 Dihexyl phthalate 84-75-3
1637 Dicyclohexyl phthalate 84-61-7
1653 Diisohexyl phthalate 71850-09-4
1667 Diisooctyl phthalate 27554-26-3

The UK rules also have a general backstop. Article 15 says a cosmetic product must not contain a substance classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (category 1A, 1B or 2) unless it is allowed by Annexes III to VI. Great Britain has kept extending Annex II by statutory instrument; one made on 11 December 2024 added 64 entries (numbers 1680 to 1743). We did not check whether any of those are phthalates, so treat the ten above as a minimum, not a complete count. Check the live page before quoting it.

What is not banned: diethyl phthalate

Search Annex II for diethyl phthalate or dimethyl phthalate and neither appears. DEP is the phthalate that matters in practice. In a 2002 opinion, the European Commission’s cosmetics safety committee (the SCCNFP, adopted 4 June 2002) described DEP as “used through direct addition in cosmetic products and indirectly in fragrances”. It concluded that “the safety profile of Diethyl-phthalate supports its use in cosmetic products at current levels” and did not recommend specific warnings or restrictions. That is an EU opinion from 2002, so it is not a UK ruling and it is not recent. We report it as dated and draw no wider conclusion from it.

The US Food and Drug Administration says much the same in a page current as of 19 May 2022. It states that DEP “appears to be the only phthalate still commonly used in cosmetics” and that it does not have safety concerns with DEP as currently used in cosmetics and fragrances. Whether you accept that is your call. Our point is narrower: the regulators we read treat DEP as permitted, so “phthalate-free” is a choice some brands make, not a legal requirement.

What product testing has found

A 2010 paper in the Journal of Cosmetic Science by an FDA chemist, Jean Hubinger, tested 84 cosmetic products, bought in the Washington, D.C. area or online, for five phthalates. It is old, American and limited, but it shows where phthalates turned up:

  • Fragrances: all 11 perfumes contained DEP, at up to 36,006 micrograms per gram (about 3.6%).
  • Hair spray, gel and mousse: 4 of 7 contained DEP, between 80 and 316 micrograms per gram.
  • Shampoo: the one adult shampoo tested contained none. One sample proves nothing about shampoo as a category. Among baby products, 3 of 13 shampoos and body washes contained DEP, at up to 274 micrograms per gram.
  • Banned types: diethylhexyl phthalate, benzyl butyl phthalate and dimethyl phthalate were not detected in any product. Dibutyl phthalate was found only in nail products.

The same paper says little or no exposure occurs from soaps, shampoos and conditioners that are used frequently but washed off, and that no one knows what share of total phthalate exposure comes from cosmetics. Those are the author’s statements, not our findings.

Why a label cannot settle it

Article 19 of the Regulation requires fragrance to appear in the ingredient list as “parfum” or “aroma”, with only certain allergens named in addition. For example, limonene (Annex III, entry 88) must be named once it exceeds 0.01% in a rinse-off product. A phthalate carried inside the fragrance does not have to be named. The FDA says the same of US labels: a consumer may not be able to tell from the ingredient declaration whether phthalates are in a fragrance. A directly added ingredient would be listed under its own name, which is why the label is still worth reading.

The honest Evera position

We checked the full ingredient lists of our Frequent Use Shampoo N1 and Frequent Use Conditioner N1, plus the six Supherbal shampoo and mask lists (eight lists in all). No phthalate ester is named in any of them. A text search for “phthal” does match tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, a fragrance component, but that is a naphthalene compound, not a phthalate.

That is all we can say. Every one of those lists ends in parfum, and the label does not itemise it. The shampoo list also names fragrance components such as limonene, hexamethylindanopyran and tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes. Proving the fragrance contains no phthalate would need a written statement from the manufacturer, and we do not have one on this page. So we do not say Evera is phthalate-free, and nobody should read this article as saying so.

Two more things belong in the open. First, our shampoos use sodium coco-sulfate, a gentle, coconut-derived cleanser, and it is a sulfate; our guide to sodium coco sulfate and hair sets out the evidence. Second, if you want a fragrance-free product, ours are not it. What is true of every Evera product is that it is paraben-free, vegan and never tested on animals; the shampoos, conditioner, masks and gloss are silicone-free. Everything is made in Italy and used every day in four London salons. For the paraben side, read our paraben-free shampoo guide.

How to choose a shampoo if phthalates concern you

  1. Treat “phthalate-free” as a question, not proof. Ask what the claim rests on. A supplier declaration for the fragrance is a real answer. A pretty badge is not.
  2. Read the ingredient list for a phthalate by name. Anything added directly appears there, for instance “Diethyl Phthalate”. The ten banned entries should never appear in a product sold legally in the UK.
  3. If you want certainty, remove the fragrance. No parfum on the list removes the main place a phthalate can hide. Otherwise, ask the brand in writing about its fragrance compounds.
  4. Weigh rinse-off against leave-on. In the survey above, DEP turned up in perfumes and styling products. The author says little or no exposure occurs from products that are washed off.
  5. Keep the claims apart. Phthalate-free, paraben-free, fragrance-free and sulphate claims are separate statements, and one says nothing about the others.
  6. Do the price per 100 ml. Our 250 ml shampoo and conditioner are £35 each, which is £14.00 per 100 ml. The Daily Duo (500 ml in total, £63) is £12.60 per 100 ml.

Evera picks, with the facts as they stand

  • The Daily Duo N1: Frequent Use Shampoo N1 plus Conditioner N1 for £63 instead of £70, a saving of £7. Neither ingredient list names a phthalate ester, and both contain parfum.
  • Frequent Use Shampoo N1, £35 for 250 ml. Contains sodium coco-sulfate. Paraben-free and silicone-free.
  • Frequent Use Conditioner N1, £35 for 250 ml. No sulphate surfactant on the list, paraben-free and silicone-free.
  • The rest of the range is in our shampoo collection.

In her own words, Caroline reviewed Frequent Use Shampoo N1: “This shampoo makes such a difference to the shine and condition of my hair. Blow drying is much more manageable. Bonus it’s also natural. Great product!” “Natural” is her word; rely on the ingredient list rather than any adjective.

Use EVERA10 for 10% off a first order, or ROUTINE10 for 10% off when two or more items are in your cart. UK delivery is free on every order, as stated on our shipping page, and unopened, sealed products can be returned within 30 days of delivery under our guarantee.

Frequently asked questions

What does phthalate-free shampoo mean?

It is a brand claim, not a legal category. It should mean no phthalate esters are present, including any carried inside the fragrance. The ten phthalates named in Annex II of the UK Cosmetics Regulation are already banned, so the claim matters mainly for diethyl phthalate, which is permitted and has been used in fragrance. Ask the brand what the claim rests on.

Are phthalates allowed in UK shampoo?

Some are, most are not. The UK version of the Cosmetics Regulation prohibits at least ten named phthalates, including dibutyl phthalate, DEHP and benzyl butyl phthalate. Diethyl phthalate and dimethyl phthalate do not appear in the prohibited list we read.

Does paraben free mean fragrance free?

No. They are separate claims. Paraben-free describes the preservative system, while fragrance-free means the formula has no parfum. All Evera products are paraben-free, and the eight Evera ingredient lists we checked all end in parfum, so none of them is fragrance-free.

Is Evera shampoo phthalate-free?

We do not make that claim. No phthalate ester is named in the ingredient lists of Frequent Use Shampoo N1 or Frequent Use Conditioner N1, but the fragrance is listed only as parfum, so the label cannot show what is inside it. Evera shampoos also contain sodium coco-sulfate, a sulfate.

How can I avoid phthalates in shampoo and conditioner?

Choose a product with no parfum in the ingredient list, or ask the brand in writing whether its fragrance compounds are phthalate-free. The survey author says little or no exposure occurs from rinse-off products such as shampoo and conditioner, but that is no substitute for checking the fragrance.

Sources

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