Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) are just two examples within a vast chemical family. These anionic surfactants are salts of sulphuric acid, commonly employed for their exceptional cleansing and lathering properties.
The term “sulphate-free” has become a pervasive marketing claim, often leading to the assumption that all sulphates are detrimental. This broad generalisation overlooks the nuanced chemistry of these compounds.
Not all sulphates are created equal. While some, like SLS, can indeed be harsh — stripping hair of its natural oils and potentially irritating sensitive scalps — others are far milder.
Consider sodium coco-sulphate, for instance. Derived from coconut oil fatty acids, it offers effective cleansing without the aggressive degreasing action associated with its harsher counterparts. Its molecular structure allows for a more controlled interaction with the hair fibre.
The efficacy and mildness of a cleanser are not solely dependent on the presence or absence of a sulphate. Formulation — the careful balance of surfactants, emollients, and conditioning agents — plays a crucial role.
A product's overall pH also significantly influences how it interacts with the hair’s cuticle. Maintaining a slightly acidic pH helps to keep the cuticle smooth and sealed.
Most conventional shampoos rely on high concentrations of inexpensive, potent sulphates for their cleansing power. Evera, conversely, formulates with specific plant-derived sulphates, chosen for their balanced detergency and compatibility with the scalp’s natural barrier.
Our focus is on achieving effective cleansing while preserving the hair’s integrity, utilising ingredients like saponins or carefully selected glycerides to complement milder sulphates.
Understanding the INCI list — the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients — is key to discerning individual compounds rather than relying on blanket terms.
Ultimately, the issue is not the category of sulphate itself, but the specific compound employed and its concentration within a well-balanced formula.
